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In the mirror, I seem to have on enormous shimmering pantaloons, perceptible just for my eyes. Kids relax in a stone basin pretending to be ocean creatures, while in the next room sits a chatting legume in a exhibition box, alongside a tall pile of cushions. It represents the world of the beloved author (1805-1875), among the 1800s widely adored authors. I'm visiting the city of Odense, located on the island of Fyn in the southern region of this Nordic country, to explore Andersen’s enduring legacy in his native city 150 years after his death, and to experience a few enchanted tales of my own.

The Museum: The Andersen Museum

Andersen's House is the city’s cultural center honoring the storyteller, featuring his childhood house. A museum representative explains that in previous versions of the museum there was scant attention on his fairytales. The writer’s life was studied, but The Little Mermaid were nowhere to be found. For tourists who visit Odense in search of storytelling magic, it was somewhat disappointing.

The redesign of the city center, rerouting a main thoroughfare, created the chance to reconsider how the city’s most famous son could be commemorated. A prestigious architectural challenge gave the Japanese company the Kengo Kuma team the project, with the innovative curatorial vision at the core of the structure. The distinctive wooden museum with connected curving spaces debuted to much acclaim in 2021. “We have attempted to design an environment where we don’t talk about Andersen, but we talk like him: with humour, sarcasm and perspective,” notes the expert. Even the gardens follow this philosophy: “This is a landscape for explorers and for colossal creatures, it’s designed to make you feel small,” he notes, an objective realized by clever planting, playing with height, size and many winding paths in a deceptively small space.

The Writer's Legacy

He authored several autobiographies and frequently changed his story. The museum takes this approach seriously; often the views of his companions or fragments of letters are shown to subtly challenge the writer's personal account of happenings. “Andersen is the narrator, but he's untrustworthy,” explains the curator. The effect is a fascinating whirlwind tour of his personal story and creations, thought processes and best-loved stories. It is provocative and fun, for adults and kids, with a additional underground make-believe land, Ville Vau, for the smallest guests.

Exploring Odense

In the real world, the small city of Odense is delightful, with historic pathways and traditional Danish homes painted in vibrant hues. The author's presence is ubiquitous: the street signals display the storyteller with his signature top hat, metal shoe prints offer a no-cost pedestrian route, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Every August this commitment peaks with the regular storytelling event, which marks the author’s legacy through visual arts, dance, stage shows and melodies.

During my visit, the seven-day celebration had 500 shows, the majority were free. While visiting Odense, I come across painted stilt-walkers, ghoulish monsters and an author double sharing tales. I experience contemporary performances and observe an amazing late-night performance featuring acrobatic dancers coming down from the municipal structure and dangling from a mechanical arm. Upcoming events this year are talks, family art workshops and, extending the narrative tradition beyond Andersen, the city’s annual wonder event.

Each wonderful fairytale destinations need a palace, and this region boasts 123 castles and estates around the area

Pedaling Through History

As in much of the country, cycles are the perfect means to navigate in this town and a “bike path” winds through the downtown area. Starting at the local hotel, I pedal to the complimentary harbour-side swimming pool, then out of town for a route around Stige Island, a compact territory connected by causeway to the primary land. Local inhabitants picnic here following their day, or appreciate a peaceful time catching fish, paddleboarding or taking a dip.

In town, I dine at the themed restaurant, where the culinary offerings is based on the writer's motifs and tales. The poem the patriotic piece is featured when I visit, and manager the restaurateur reads extracts, rendered in English, as he presents each course. Such encounters frequent in my visit, the fynbo love a yarn and it seems that narrating is continuously offered here.

Historic Estate Tours

Each wonderful fairytale destinations deserve a fortress, and this region features numerous historic homes and stately homes around the area. Going on excursions from town, I tour Egeskov Castle, the continent's finely maintained Renaissance water castle. Although large sections are accessible to the public, this historic site is also the private residence of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his wife, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I contemplate if she can feel a small legume through a pile of {mattresses