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It's squash season and most anticipated season, especially for all the curries and other comfort food of fall. This Rajasthani stir-fry is one I cook often, and the blend of ginger, chili and jaggery lends it a wonderful balance of flavour. This layered rice dish, on the other hand, is loaded with aromatic spices, basmati and clarified butter, which give so much more flavour to the layers of grains and vegetables.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes starts on early October, so what better way to mark the occasion than with a flavorful, comforting, single-pot layered rice dish? If you like, prepare the spiced vegetable mixture element ahead of time and layer everything on the occasion you plan to eat.

Prep 20 min
Cooking 2 hr
Serves 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cut into bite-sized pieces
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

Begin by preparing the curry base. Heat the ghee in a sizable, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat, incorporate the cumin seeds, bay leaves and clove spices, and sauté for a few seconds. Stir in the onion slices and sauté, stirring often, for about half an hour, until softened. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a plate and set aside (you'll use them later during the layering).

Introduce the green chillies and ginger strips to the onions in pan, cook for a brief period, then mix in the tomato puree, chilli powder, turmeric powder and coriander powder, and sauté for a short while. Turn down to a gentle flame, blend in the yoghurt and cook for a couple of minutes.

Mix in the pumpkin pieces and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then cook for several minutes. Pour in the stock or water, and add salt to taste. Heat until boiling, then turn down the heat, place lid and simmer for about twenty minutes, mixing midway to ensure nothing's stuck to the base of the pan. Sprinkle with coriander, then remove from the heat.

Preheat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Rinse the basmati, then put it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay leaves, cardamom and seasoning. Heat to boiling, simmer for around ten minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then strain.

To build the biryani, place a spoonful of warmed ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a secure cover. Ladle in half the spiced vegetables, then layer with some the rice. Sprinkle a portion the saffron infusion, ginger, mint leaves, ground cardamom and garam masala, then top with the caramelized onions. Top with the rest of curry mixture, then spoon on the leftover rice. Finish with the rest of clarified butter, saffron water, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and spice mix.

Cover with baking paper, cover with the lid, then bake on the middle shelf of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so the aromas infuse the grains. Take out of the oven, leave to rest, keeping covered, for several minutes, then remove the cover and present with yogurt sauce and fresh salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Squash with Spice Blend Sauté)

The Indian word "pickling style" describes flavouring a dish using preserving spices, and the combination includes mustard, fennel seeds, fenugreek, cumin, hing and kalonji, but they're not used only in preserved foods. The blend also appears in various types of curries and sautéed preparations, like this recipe.

Prep 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, to taste
1 tbsp jaggery, or substitute with brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Put the mustard, fenugreek seeds and fennel in a mortar, crush coarsely, then set aside. Heat the cooking oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a medium heat. Add the crushed spices and the hing, and sauté, stirring, for a brief moment. Mix in the chopped ginger, fry for a short while, then stir in the squash, chili powder and turmeric, and sauté, tossing, for five minutes more.

Add a small amount water to the pan, season with salt to taste and bring to a boil. Place lid, turn down the flame, and leave to cook for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway. Add the palm sugar, crushing some of the pieces a bit, then incorporate the mango powder, mix thoroughly and present hot with flatbreads or naan.